A Staffin afternoon

An afternoon which began with mist on the hills, clearing to bright warm sunshine later. There’s a long-established path at Staffin, running from the Columba 1400 car park over the hill to the sea. Descending towards the shore, the age of the path is evident in the well-laid stone blocks forming the surface. It leads to the slipway; our route deviates across slightly marshy ground (pick the way fairly carefully and feet will remain dry) to the saltings and, beyond, some comfortable rocks – a great spot for watching the waves. It’s a scenic route too – super views back to the Trotternish hills as we ascend, with the sea and the mainland ahead once we’ve topped the ridge. As ever at this time of year on Skye, orchids and other wild flowers abound.

Return to Rubha na h-Aiseig

We’ve been here before – it’s a wonderfully quiet walk through some superb coastal scenery to what is not quite the most northerly tip of Skye (the northernmost point, by about 200 yards, is Rubha Hunish, a mile or two to the west). There’s space for a few cars at Port Gobhlaig, and a way across grass to low cliffs above rocky inlets, an arch and a stack, home to numerous seabirds. An old way then descends to the rocky shore, backed by sheep-grazed grassland. It was busy today – we saw (briefly) two other walkers and (even more briefly) an angler. About a mile offshore is the uninhabited Eilean Trodday. In the distance are the hills of Lewis. In the sea, there’s a small yacht (motoring – there’s barely a breeze), a distant tanker, and a fishing boat which struggles against the strong tidal flow. It’s a great place – must return again

Mucklewick in May

Sounds charming, doesn’t it? We started out from The Bog… It was warm, clear, sunny – beautiful! Gone are the pastel shades of the winter months – it’s all in technicolor today.

We leave the Bog car park by the new path beside the road, heading north-east on a walk that would be south-west of our starting point. There’s method in our madness – we’re avoiding a short stretch of path that can be seriously muddy. Later, as we descend from the ridge, a fairly comfortable rock beneath The Rock provides us with table and chairs (I exaggerate) for lunch – a near-perfect spot, away from the wind (a light breeze, very welcome later in the afternoon) and the gunfire. It’s not the quietest part of the county…

Quiet tracks (on the opposite side of the ridge to the shooting range) and a very minor road take us down to the West Onny valley, then via Nind back up onto the hills. Mucklewick Hill is another pleasant spot (enjoying that breeze now) for the last of the day’s provisions before, after a short descent, the long gentle rise to tea and cakes at the Bog Centre (highly recommended!).

The Bog Visitor Centre