Brown Clee and Boyne Water

Perfect for a fine and sunny afternoon, with just a pleasant breeze. Taking the direct route to the summit, there are others about, but as we continue towards Boyne Water and the track down through the estate lands, we realise we’ve left the crowds (perhaps a dozen in total?) behind. We followed this route back in the spring, but today we’re doing it anticlockwise for subtly different views.

As we near the equinox, the sun is noticeably lower in the sky. Those shorter days of misty distances are getting closer.

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Edale to Glossop – a day to remember

Tuesday: The Greater Manchester “Wayfarer” is excellent value, especially to those of us who qualify for the “concession” fare of £6. A day return from Shrewsbury to Wilmslow isn’t too expensive – from there, the Wayfarer takes over – and we don’t even need to change trains to get to Piccadilly. We’ll have a little while to wait before we join a Sheffield-bound “stopper” for the ride to Edale. Soon we’re heading for the hills, and already the day is very warm in the bright sunshine – it will turn out to be the hottest September day for many years (though it’s not going to be the temperature that makes it memorable). By early afternoon, we’re on the edge of the summit plateau of Kinder Scout, where there’s no shortage of comfortable boulders for a lunch break.

By the time we’re moving again (only minutes), there’s cloud in the west, and the day has changed by the time we reach Kinder downfall. The landscape is murky (and the temperature has dropped) as we head, via Mill Hill and the curiously-named Harry Hut, towards Glossop. A glint of metal catches the eye in the increasingly-drab heather – the remains of a WW2 bomber. (Later research tells an unexpectedly-happy tale – the two-man crew, on delivery duties, were able to walk down to the main road, suffering just cuts, bruises and one broken jaw. The web site doesn’t tell how the latter was sustained)

As our train from Glossop approaches Manchester, the sky over the city looks threatening. We hear the rain – and the thunder – begin while we take refreshments, before boarding the 6.30pm for Shrewsbury. The sky is now so dark (apart from the near-constant lightning) that it could be midnight. “Look at that staircase – it’s a waterfall!”. Our prompt departure is misleading – we crawl from signal to signal most of the way to Wilmslow. Then, with (at last) a glimmer of light in the western sky, we pick up speed and run to Shrewsbury without further delay.

We arrive home perhaps half-an-hour late. Checking the news sites, we realise that we got off lightly – Manchester’s tram network had come to a complete standstill, an international football match had been called off, and chaos reigned (rained?) in the city’s sodden streets. It was a most enjoyable walk and a great day out, but that might not be why we’ll remember this trip.

Greater Manchester Wayfarer
B-24J Liberator 42-52003

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Alone on Rubha Hunish

28 August: Last time I was here, there were others about. This time, I paid my visit to Skye’s northernmost tip before lunch, and had the little rock-rimmed peninsula to myself – and the gulls, and the cormorants. Wonderful! I’m on my own because my usual companion on these little outings would be quite unable to manage the very steep rocky path down the cliff between Meall Tuath and Meall Deas – it needs a good head for heights. After a most enjoyable hour or so, I’m on my way back, and now there are others on their way down. They’ll enjoy their visit, I’m sure, but being alone on Rubha Hunish feels a little bit special…

 

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The enchanted loch

27th August: The sign at the little parking place describes Loch Shianta as “The Enchanted, Holy or Magical Loch”. There’s certainly something magical about the water in this well-hidden pool – it’s the clearest water I’ve ever seen, with a curious turquoise tint. Is it something in the water, or just its rocky bed? Sadly, neither the depth nor the clarity come through in the photos – it has to be seen to be believed.

The path down to the loch is short and well-made, with little plaques every few yards, mostly in Gaelic. “Gabh seo, a ghaoil” seems to translate (Google) as “take this, love”. Is that perhaps too literal? Though it’s late in the season, this is a colourful walk, with plenty of knapweed and scabious, not to mention a patch or two of ragwort. Just off the path. there’s a super small colony of fly agaric (“flying Eric”, as my nephew once misheard), and as ever, there are great views of islands and the highlands.

Staffin Ecomuseum

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Sròn Vourlinn

Sron Vourlinn25th August: yesterday, as we walked back from Rubha na h-Aiseig, the shapely peak of Sròn Vourlinn was prominent and dramatic on the skyline ahead. Today, we’ll walk to that peak and look back to Ferry Point…

There’s a fairly straight, level and most enjoyable route to Sròn Vourlinn from the top of the road from Staffin to Uig – unfortunately, everyone else agrees with me, as the first part of the walk is also the route to the much better-known Quiraing. We’ll try to avoid the crowds, and begin the walk on the path from Loch Langaig, down on the main road near Flodigarry (see also “Quiraing – the other way“). The path ascends steadily until it reaches a cairn marking a sharp right turn, in a hollow below black cliffs and startling pinnacles. There are other walkers around – one or two have used our path from Loch Langaig – but when we continue along the ridge to the north, we’ve got the hills to ourselves. The views are tremendous and extensive, from the mainland mountains to the east, through a far-reaching seascape to the hills of the Western Isles. In the middle distance, with Lewis on the horizon, is Rubha na h-Aiseig. To the south, down the Trotternish ridge, the landscape is a tangled confusion of crags, cliffs and pinnacles. Just don’t get too close to that vertical cliff edge!

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Ferry Point

24th August: It’s Rubha na h-Aiseig on the map – and just a mile further north is Eilean Trodday. The island was inhabited once – was this where the ferry departed? There’s no road, and barely a path, but the route is fairly obvious. The descent from the rocky cliff-top to the shore follows what seems to be a made way – a well-graded route with a single zig (or zag?) close to its foot. There was no shortage of tourists on the single-track road round the north of Trotternish (16-registered hire cars, terrified expressions on their drivers’ faces… I’m guessing, of course) but on this short walk, we’re alone – apart from one solitary sheep, lots of gannets, and the crew of a passing yacht. After two days of motorways and busy roads, it’s perfect!

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Lightspout Ridge

There’s an obvious and inviting route up this ridge, prominent above the Cardingmill Valley. It’s one of those paths which become fainter as height is gained – it’s quite a pull up to the rocks at the top. Beyond, the path is very faint, walked mainly by the four-legged locals, I suspect, and for a little while, I’m wallowing in luxuriant purple heather. The ridge is unnamed on the OS 1:25000 map, but I find myself looking down into the Lightspout Hollow, whose waterfall is a mere trickle in this summer weather. Perhaps this is Lightspout Ridge? (above the reservoir, it’s “Cow Ridge”, but that doesn’t seem an adequate description). A more obvious path now takes me down to the path above the waterfall, where, having met no-one since beginning the ridge path, I’m back amongst the (relatively speaking) crowds. I’ve done this short walk on my own – the others will be in the tea room, so I’d better not hang about now…

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Knighton to Bucknell

We left the car at Bucknell railway station, and caught the 1052 train to Knighton, all of 4.25 miles away (though we’ll walk more than twice that to get back). That ought to be “Knighton International” – the platforms are in Shropshire, the town (and the first few yards of our walk) in Wales. Crossing back into England, we’re soon looking down on the Teme valley, beside Offa’s Dyke, before turning right at an upland crossroads (crosspaths?) to head through high breezy grassland which ends at Bucknell wood. The descent through the woods towards the village (every bit as quiet as Clunton and Clunbury, Clungunford and Clun, apart from the occasional train) is much more pleasant than might be imagined – a good walking surface and lots of variety. There were showers about, which we mostly managed to avoid – it didn’t feel at all like early August, but it was a good day to be out on these lonely hills.

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Apedale, Wensleydale – Swaledale

Tuesday pm: There’s a most attractive “Apedale” along the road from Much Wenlock to Church Stretton (are Shropshire’s dales England’s southernmost?), and another Apedale in Staffordshire, home of a splendid 2′ gauge railway. This one’s a very minor, little-known dale in Yorkshire, and the coincidence is just that – quite accidental. The rough track we’re walking would take us over to Swaledale: we’ll stop at the watershed, admire the views, and turn back (walked far enough for one day). We had thought of making a circular route, following the ridge (a flat peaty moor) back round, but there was no path and the going looked hard on deep tussocky grass.

Yorkshire’s Apedale was most enjoyable, and retracing our steps was no hardship. It’s not the most spectacular part of the dales, but it’s very quiet – the only sounds are those of the birds (there are hundreds of rabbits, but they’re silent, and the sheep aren’t saying much). And what birds! A cuckoo, several lapwings, and more curlews than I’ve seen and heard for many years. Their rising, bubbling cry screams “lonely places”, sending a real shiver down the spine (try it: listen to the recordings on the links below). Sadly, they don’t like having their picture taken.

British Birdsongs: Curlew
RSPB: Curlew

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