North of Portree there’s a ridge – a line of hills frequently seen in photographs but, I suspect, infrequently visited. The photographs in question are of the Old Man of Storr, with the Storr Lochs and the hills in question behind. The highest point, Sìthean a’ Bhealaich Chumhaing, is just 1286′ above sea level – but that sea is less than half-a-mile from the summit – it’s a splendid airy viewpoint which makes this scenic walk well worthwhile.

I’d be doing this one on my own (just as well…). The household authorities were going shopping in Portree – if I left my car at the north end of the Storr Lochs, I’d have a lift to the start. I’d rather have done the walk in the opposite direction, but that wasn’t going to be quite so easy to organise. Having done the walk, I realise it would be much better walked north to south – route-finding would have been easier (there are a couple of moderately tricky spots going south-north, where it’s important to find the right places to descend from lines of crags). It would have involved less ascent too!

I set out from Portree along the very pleasant path to the Black Rock, continuing by the curiously named “Bile” (a raised beach, apparently) to the start of the ridge proper. There is no obvious path over squelchy moorland which must be crossed before reaching the grassy sheep-cropped ridge, where no path is needed – it’s excellent walking. The main peak comes first, followed by two lesser tops, Creag Ulatota and Fiurnean. The last stretch back to the power station road is a long slog across a pathless sodden moor of tussocky grass, making for slow and hard going, and damp feet. Only once did I see a bootprint. Back at the car, there’s a sign – the Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society proclaims a footpath to Portree, 6.5 miles. Wishful thinking! If there was a path, it would be a truly excellent walk. And it may be 6.5 miles as the crow flies – but I reckon I walked nearer 8…

The minor road between Uig and Staffin is very popular with visitors to Skye – the views from the top of the pass are some of the best known in the UK, and the road itself as it winds down the eastern side has featured in countless car advertisements. Consequently, a substantial car park has been made for (perhaps that should read “made by”) those visitors. Many will be content to take in and photograph the views, while others will walk the mile or so to the Quiraing, along one of the country’s finest footpaths. It can be very hard, in the season, to find a parking space, and the path will be busy. There is an alternative…

The aforementioned path actually passes the Quiraing (to enter this astonishing rocky stronghold  requires a fairly exposed scramble up a steep loose slope before threading between the tall pinnacles). It continues to a further area of spectacular rock formations – “Fingal’s Pinnacles” – before descending past Lochs Hasco and Langaig to arrive at the main road around the north of the island near Flodigarry. From the main road to the foot of the Quiraing is a little under 2 miles, and involves a steady ascent (about 800′). And it’s not obvious where the path goes. Consequently, this well-made way is quiet.

We wouldn’t be entering the Quiraing itself today (been there/done that several times) – if I could have got my companion up there, I’d never have got her down again. The path itself is a tremendous way of spending an afternoon without that kind of excitement.