Sunshine and solitude

Sunday 19 August: At last, some decent weather. The clouds have cleared, no rain is forecast, the wind’s dropped. We’ve had a reminder in the past few days that Skye is full in August. There are huge numbers of visitors, who struggle with the single-track roads in the north of the island – especially those in hire cars, and as for all those monster camper vans… There are some very popular destinations up here, but if we avoid them, we should be OK. So we’re walking from Port Gobhlaig, along the very quiet coastal path to Rubha na h-Aiseig, and our companions will be the sheep and the seabirds. If the tip of this grassy promontory was a few yards further north, it would be the northernmost tip of Skye – and probably more popular. But wait – what’s this? As we walk back towards the start, there are two other people! How dare they? (Why are their voices so loud?)

Tomorrow we’re heading for home. Reminder to self: avoid high summer in future.

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Rubha na h-Aiseig again

Tues. 2 May: we’ve walked this way several times before, but it’s always an enjoyable outing. From the tiny Port Gobhlaig, a faint path follows the top of low cliffs, with stacks and inlets and an excellent view to the coast and hills to the south. After a little while, what seems to be an ancient path descends steeply to the grassy foreshore, fringed by rocks, pools and camels (just their humps). Eventually, one can go no further. There’s evidence of settlement here, the remains of perhaps three “black” houses by the shore – is this where a ferry (to Trodday, just a mile off shore) once departed? It’s a pleasant, and exceptionally quiet spot – there’s no-one else here – a good place to find a comfortable rock seat and gaze across the water. Eventually, we return the way we’ve come, more-or-less, which is no hardship given the views of the cliffs and Trotternish ridge ahead.


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