Two days later…

Sun 15 October: it’s still very windy, with lots of showers and occasional bursts of sunshine. Saturday was grey and relatively calm, so we were on garden duties; today we need a change of scene, so we’re out in the car, hoping for dry spells and those elusive sunny intervals. We’ll start off at Staffin slip, then head down the east coast as far as the viewpoint above Rigg bay. Retracing our steps, there’s a brief brighter spell by loch Mealt, then, pausing by Score bay, the floodlights are switched on to illuminate what’s left of Duntulm castle.

Rubha na h-Aiseig again

Tues. 2 May: we’ve walked this way several times before, but it’s always an enjoyable outing. From the tiny Port Gobhlaig, a faint path follows the top of low cliffs, with stacks and inlets and an excellent view to the coast and hills to the south. After a little while, what seems to be an ancient path descends steeply to the grassy foreshore, fringed by rocks, pools and camels (just their humps). Eventually, one can go no further. There’s evidence of settlement here, the remains of perhaps three “black” houses by the shore – is this where a ferry (to Trodday, just a mile off shore) once departed? It’s a pleasant, and exceptionally quiet spot – there’s no-one else here – a good place to find a comfortable rock seat and gaze across the water. Eventually, we return the way we’ve come, more-or-less, which is no hardship given the views of the cliffs and Trotternish ridge ahead.

 

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North and south hills

28 November: Meall Tuath and Meall Deas are the rocky hills (or possibly “lumps”) which overlook Rubha Hunish, Skye’s northern tip. I was here in the summer, scrambling down the cliff-face to reach that grass-topped rocky tongue of land. Today, we’ll be content to take in the vista from these superb viewpoints. On Meall Tuath, there’s a former coastguard lookout, now equipped as a mountain bothy – could be a great place to spend a short midsummer night, but not in late November. Once again, we’re on our own out here – apart from the sheep and the seabirds – and golden eagles. There were two or three above us as we parked the car, gone by the time we were out – but then, as we made our way along the path, there was another. A grab shot will have to suffice for illustration – they may be big, but they’re hard to find in the viewfinder on maximum zoom, and they don’t exactly pose. A great sight on our last day out up here – soon we’ll be heading south, with fingers crossed for weather and traffic…

map

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Ferry Point

24th August: It’s Rubha na h-Aiseig on the map – and just a mile further north is Eilean Trodday. The island was inhabited once – was this where the ferry departed? There’s no road, and barely a path, but the route is fairly obvious. The descent from the rocky cliff-top to the shore follows what seems to be a made way – a well-graded route with a single zig (or zag?) close to its foot. There was no shortage of tourists on the single-track road round the north of Trotternish (16-registered hire cars, terrified expressions on their drivers’ faces… I’m guessing, of course) but on this short walk, we’re alone – apart from one solitary sheep, lots of gannets, and the crew of a passing yacht. After two days of motorways and busy roads, it’s perfect!

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