Wednesday 15 October: the summer is long past, but the centre of Skye’s ‘capital’ Portree is busy with tourists. That’s where I find myself, and I need to hang around for about 90 minutes on this cloudy but still afternoon. If I walk down to the end of Bayfield Road, I can continue around ‘The Lump’ – that should be quiet. It was, of course, but the photos may convey a false impression of the Portree that the visitors see…

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